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swam its corpse…crowded waters。 Sir Theophilus visited its banks a day or two afterwards； and told me that he never saw another sight so fearful as they presented； because of the multitude of dead men； women and children with which they were strewn。
5 Published in 1913。 — Ed。
There ong us of Shepstone’s staff during that long journey or afterwards。 Indeed we were a band of brothers — as brothers ought to be。 Personally I formed friendships then； especially with Osborn and Clarke； that endured till their deaths and I trust may be renewed elsewhere。
When we crossed into the Transvaal our expedition assumed a more business aspect。 Greater ceremony was observed and a guard was mounted at night； for we did not quite know how we should be received。 Now I made my first real acquaintance with the Boers； who came from all quarters to visit or to spy upon us。 They were rough folk： big； bearded men with all the old Dutch characteristics； who made a greater show of religion than they practised； especially when Kaffirs were concerned。 I did not like them much at the time — few Englishmen did — but I can see now that I ought to have made more allowances。 The circumstances of their history and up…bringing account for that which was repellent both in their actions and their character。 Into that history I will not enter further than to say that they had been bred in an atmosphere of hereditary hate of England and its Governments； which in some particulars； such as that of the manner of freeing of the slaves in the Cape Colony in 1836； was not altogether unjustified。 Moreover they had fought fearful battles with the natives in the territories they occupied； and learned to loathe them。 The Old Testament too was the standard by which they ruled their conduct。 They pared themselves to the Hebrews marching from their land of bondage in Egypt； while the Kaffirs in the parallel filled the places of the Canaanites and Jebusites and other tribes that were unfortunate enough to stand in their way。 So they slew them mercilessly； and under the name of apprenticeship practically enslaved many of them。 But in those days I saw only the results； and judged by those results。 I did not see nor had I learned the causes which produced them。 Now I know that there is much to admire in the Boer character； also that among them were many men of real worth。 Indeed； as I shall tell； one of these afterwards saved my life and those of my two panions。
On our way up to Pretoria we entertained our Dutch visitors on several occasions as well as the circumstances would allow。 These were uncouth dinner…parties； but very amusing。 At one of them I remember a jovial old boy who sat next to me invited me to e and “opsit” with his daughter； whom he described as a “mooi mesje；” that is； a pretty girl。 I accepted the invitation； packed the old Boer off home； and went to Osborn to inquire exactly what “opsitting” might be。
When I discovered that it consisted in sitting alone with a young woman at night with a candle burning between the two； which somewhat dreary proceeding ipso facto involved a promise of marriage； I did not follow the matter further。 I should explain； however； that the engagement depended upon the length of the candle。 If the young lady wished to encourage the “opsitter” she produced a long one that would last till dawn； and his fate was sealed。 If she desired to be rid of him the candle was of the shortest； and when it was burnt out he was bound to go。 Conversation； if allowed； was unnecessary； all you had to do was to sit on either side of the candle； which might not be passed。
I wonder if they still “opsit” in South Africa； or if the twentieth century has made an end of this quaint and doubtless ancient custom。
In Pretoria； where everyone； whatever his nationality； was utterly sick of the Boer regime； the Mission was received with the greatest enthusiasm。 There were reception mittees； there were dinners； there were balls； for although the munity was practically bankrupt this did not detract from its gaiety or the lavishness of its hospitality。 How the bills were paid I am sure I do not know； but I presume it must have been in kind； for no one had any money。 The position of the Republic was desperate； and of it all despaired。 Taxes could no longer be collected； and it was said that the postmasters were directed to pay themselves their own salaries — in stamps。 The forces of the country； or rather the mandoes of burghers； had been defeated by the Basuto chief； Secocoeni； with a loss of seven thousand head of cattle。 As a result the war against this potentate and his nine thousand warriors who lived in the Loolu Berg； a range of mountains about two hundred and fifty miles to the north…east of Pretoria； was then being carried on by a small force of filibusters。 These men received no pay； while they were expected to provide for themselves out of what they could take。 The upshot may be imagined。
The President of the Republic was a Cape Colonist minister of the Dutch Reformed Church who was educated in Holland； of the name of Burgers； a well…meaning； curious； and rather attractive man of intelligence and good appearance； but one utterly lacking in stability of character。 He had recently visited Europe in the interests of the Republic； and had even succeeded in raising 90；000 pounds in Holland for the construction of a railway to Delagoa Bay； which money； I believe； was lost。 Also he was said to have had certain nebulous dealings with the Germans which even in those days were a cause of some anxiety to this country。6 I have seen President Burgers almost in tears over the condition of the Republic； nor did he veil his opinions of its state in his addresses to the Volksraad； as anyone who cares to consult the history of the period can discover for himself。 At no time was he an earnest opponent of the annexation。 Ultimately he accepted a pension from our Government； and died in the Cape Colony in 1881。
6 See Sir Bartle Frere’s letter to Mr。 J。 M。 Maclean； “Life of Frere；” vol。 ii； p。 183。
The great danger with which the Transvaal was threatened in 1877 was that of a Zulu attack。 Secocoeni had all along been acting more or less under the inspiratio