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depths of the vast forests the traveller meets them toiling forward under the weight of some tremendous load。 Humbly the poor creatures； in whose veins perhaps flows the blood of Montezuma； draw aside and stand resting on their long sticks while the white lords pass。 Then once more they begin their patient journeyings。
By the way； I saw a very curious “mackintosh” in use among these Chiapas Indians。 It consisted of two huge leaves； I suppose of some water plant； which were fastened together at the base； leaving a hole for the wearer’s head。 These leaves； thus arranged； hung to below the middle before and behind； and were impermeable even to the tropical Mexican rain。 A long line of men clad in them presented the strangest of sights。
We arrived at the mine at last； and spent some days there。 It was in the charge of an English gentleman whose name I am sorry to say I have quite forgotten； but who received us with much kindness。 He had built himself； or the pany had built for him； a long low house with a verandah and some spare rooms； in one of which I slept。 After the mosquito…haunted canoe and our nocturnal habitations； that clean little room seemed an almost celestial abode。 Tarantulas were very plentiful about the house and； going to bed one night； I perceived a specimen of inconceivable size — really it looked as large as a plate — sitting on the ceiling immediately above my head； and shouted for assistance。 My host arrived and； after inspection of the monster； exclaimed： “For goodness’ sake don’t touch it！ That isn’t a tarantula； that’s the chap who lives upon tarantulas！” I accepted the explanation； but asked him to be good enough to remove this household god to his own room。
While Jebb was engaged in the affairs of the mine I wandered about the beautiful valley in which it was situated； collecting plants and ferns。 The vegetation here was truly wonderful； while palms and other trees； covered with ferns and orchids to their crowns； presented a lovely sight。 Only； because of the snakes which were said to abound； it was necessary to be very careful in gathering these floral treasures。 With much difficulty I succeeded in bringing a sackload of roots to England； and in the greenhouses here still survive some of the plants I collected in Mexico； though certain of the ferns grew so enormous that they had to be given away。 I lost that sack on an American train； and was told by the conductor to go and look for it in a very insufficiently lighted van； where presently I came to grief over some hard object。 It proved to be a coffined corpse which was being “mailed” from one part of the States to another。
Our return journey to Frontera was quite as arduous as that of which I have spoken； but in the end we arrived without having contracted fever or met with any serious mishap。 Here； however； we fell victims to Mexican guile。 The American steamer； with our wives and luggage on board； was due to call on the following day； but some rascal at Frontera who was agent for the line； and also owned a tub that plied between that port and Vera Cruz； informed us that this she would not do because of a “norther” that was ing up。 Now a “norther” is a very terrible gale which blows for days at a time in the Gulf of Mexico； making it impossible for even the finest ship to approach certain of the ports； and the agent swore that his telegraphic information as to its arrival was correct。 This； of course； meant that we might look forward to； I think； another fortnight of the pleasures of Frontera。
However； the agent was ready with a remedy。 The tub I have mentioned was sailing for Vera Cruz at once。 It would； he said； get there before the liner left； or； if not； it would signal to the liner to stop and take us aboard。 Only we must make up our minds instantly — within five minutes。 We fell into the trap； paid an expensive fare； and steamed off in that dreadful ship。 During the night we sighted the American liner with our wives on board； making straight for Frontera！ To municate with her was impossible； indeed； once he had us safe at sea the captain laughed at the idea。 On the following morning the ladies arrived at Frontera； where they expected to meet us； but were told by the consummate villain of an agent who had shipped us off in his own boat on the previous day； that no Englishmen answering to our description had been even heard of at Frontera。 So they were forced to proceed upon their journey in a state of some anxiety。
We also had anxieties； for the machinery of our tub broke down。 There for one whole night we rolled about off the coast of Mexico； sleeping； or rather sitting； on the coils of rope upon the deck and waiting for the promised “norther” which now showed every sign of arrival。 Fortunately； however； it did not develop until later； for； had it done so； our ship in its disabled condition would in all probability have gone to the bottom。 By the following morning the engines were more or less patched up； and we crept into Vera Cruz with no baggage except the travel…stained garments in which we stood and the sack of fern roots whereof I have spoken； for such spare clothes as we possessed had been left behind。
The end of it was that we journeyed back to the City of Mexico； a place that I had hoped never to see again； where we bought a few necessaries and took the train to New York。
After five days of arduous travel； during which I suffered much from headache； we reached that city to find that our womenkind had also arrived there safely。 Two or three things remain impressed upon my mind in connection with this long train journey。 One is the sad and desolate aspect of the sandy wildernesses of Upper Mexico； dotted here and there with tall cacti； as these appeared in the light of the full moon。 Another is the sight of a small herd of bison which we passed on the great plains of Texas； I suppose among the last that were left in that country。 These I am very glad to have seen in their wild state。 The third is the view of Niagara as we saw it in one wintry dawn。 The train pulled up to allow us to inspect the Falls； and for a while we stood almost on the brink of the cataract watching the great ice boulders thunder to the de